{"id":54917,"date":"2026-10-06T18:15:12","date_gmt":"2026-10-06T18:15:12","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/lifestylemag.com\/?p=54917"},"modified":"2026-10-06T18:15:13","modified_gmt":"2026-10-06T18:15:13","slug":"inside-the-ryokan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/lifestylemag.com\/pt-br\/inside-the-ryokan\/","title":{"rendered":"The Room That Changes After Dinner: Inside the Ryokan"},"content":{"rendered":"

By Catherine Jacobi<\/p>\n\n\n\n

No Asaba, em Izu, a mesa onde voc\u00ea jantou desaparece enquanto voc\u00ea est\u00e1 no banho. Essa transforma\u00e7\u00e3o silenciosa revela muito sobre a maneira japonesa de receber.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The Japanese style sitting room in Matsukaze, at Asaba, as it looks by day: tatami, a low table and cushions, facing the pond and the Noh stage. Courtesy of Asaba.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

No Asaba,<\/a>, em Shuzenji<\/a> na pen\u00ednsula de Izu<\/a>, os sapatos ficam na entrada e o h\u00f3spede \u00e9 conduzido at\u00e9 o quarto. No Matsukaze, que a casa descreve como seu quarto de estilo puramente japon\u00eas, h\u00e1 tatame no piso, uma mesa baixa na sala, almofadas ao redor e, do outro lado da janela, o lago e o palco de n\u00f4. O ch\u00e1 chega logo. O futon ainda est\u00e1 guardado.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

O Japan National Tourism Organization<\/a> descreve os quartos da casa assim: mesa e almofadas para descansar durante o dia, futons espessos estendidos sobre o tatame \u00e0 noite. \u00c9 o desenho cl\u00e1ssico do ryokan, em que um \u00fanico c\u00f4modo serve de sala, sala de jantar e quarto, uma fun\u00e7\u00e3o de cada vez. No Asaba de hoje, cada acomoda\u00e7\u00e3o ganhou um dormit\u00f3rio ao lado da sala de estilo japon\u00eas, e a troca passou a acontecer entre os dois ambientes, na mesma ordem e no mesmo hor\u00e1rio. O Michelin Guide<\/a>, que mant\u00e9m a casa entre as Tr\u00eas Chaves do Jap\u00e3o, trata o Asaba como o prot\u00f3tipo do ryokan, e por isso ele \u00e9 um bom lugar para observar essa troca acontecer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A voca\u00e7\u00e3o para receber vem de longe. Segundo a fam\u00edlia Asaba,<\/a> a hist\u00f3ria come\u00e7ou em 1484, quando Yakuro Yukitada Asaba se tornou guardi\u00e3o do templo de Shuzenji e abriu, diante de seus port\u00f5es, uma hospedaria para os monges que chegavam. Mais de cinco s\u00e9culos depois, a casa continua nas m\u00e3os de seus descendentes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The garden and pond at Asaba, in Shuzenji, on the site where the family opened a lodging for monks in 1484. Courtesy of Asaba.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

O dia no ryokan se organiza em torno do jantar. Muitos h\u00f3spedes tomam o primeiro banho de fonte termal no fim da tarde e retornam ao quarto vestidos de yukata. Ent\u00e3o a mesa da sala recebe a refei\u00e7\u00e3o, servida ali mesmo entre 18h e 19h por um atendente exclusivo. Os japoneses t\u00eam uma express\u00e3o para esse tipo de cuidado: age-zen sue-zen<\/em>, servir a mesa e retir\u00e1-la sem que o h\u00f3spede precise pedir. A ideia ultrapassa a cortesia. Pressup\u00f5e-se que a casa conhe\u00e7a o ritmo de quem recebe bem o suficiente para agir antes que qualquer pedido seja feito.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Dinner at Asaba is served in the guest’s room between 6 and 7 p.m. by a private attendant. Courtesy of Asaba.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

O costume de levar a refei\u00e7\u00e3o at\u00e9 o viajante tem ra\u00edzes na pr\u00f3pria estrada. Durante s\u00e9culos, quem atravessava o Jap\u00e3o carregava sua comida em um cesto de bambu chamado hatago<\/em> e alugava apenas um teto, onde preparava a pr\u00f3pria refei\u00e7\u00e3o. No per\u00edodo Edo, quando as esta\u00e7\u00f5es do Tokaido passaram a ligar Edo a Kyoto e as viagens se tornaram mais frequentes, algumas hospedarias come\u00e7aram a servir comida e herdaram o nome do cesto.\nAs que continuaram sem cozinha ficaram conhecidas como kichinyado<\/em>, pois o h\u00f3spede pagava pela lenha e cuidava da pr\u00f3pria refei\u00e7\u00e3o. Desse per\u00edodo vem uma f\u00f3rmula que ainda organiza a experi\u00eancia do ryokan: uma noite, duas refei\u00e7\u00f5es, jantar e caf\u00e9 da manh\u00e3.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Utagawa Hiroshige, “Inn with Serving Maids, Akasaka,” no. 37 from the series The Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido, c. 1833\u20131834. Color woodblock print, published by Takenouchi Magohachi (H\u014deid\u014d). RISD Museum, gift of Mrs. John D. Rockefeller Jr. (41.080.37). Public domain.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

O quarto s\u00f3 consegue mudar de fun\u00e7\u00e3o porque foi pensado para isso. No per\u00edodo Edo, o tatame passou a cobrir o piso inteiro dos c\u00f4modos, e a cama japonesa, o futon, nunca teve estrutura fixa. Pela manh\u00e3, ela \u00e9 dobrada e guardada no oshiire<\/em>, um arm\u00e1rio fundo de portas corredi\u00e7as, e o quarto volta a ser sala. O ryokan levou essa l\u00f3gica dom\u00e9stica para a hospitalidade, com uma diferen\u00e7a decisiva: em casa, cada um estende a pr\u00f3pria cama; no ryokan, algu\u00e9m faz isso por voc\u00ea.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A troca acontece no intervalo. Terminado o jantar, enquanto o h\u00f3spede volta \u00e0 fonte termal ou caminha pelo jardim, a atendente retira a lou\u00e7a e estende o futon, com len\u00e7\u00f3is e edredom, sobre o tatame. H\u00f3spedes do Asaba relatam exatamente isso: depois do jantar, o futon aparece pronto. O momento varia de casa para casa, e o contraste ajuda a entender o conceito. Nos minshuku<\/em>, as pousadas familiares mais simples, o futon fica no arm\u00e1rio \u00e0 espera, e quem o estende \u00e9 o pr\u00f3prio h\u00f3spede. No ryokan, age-zen sue-zen<\/em> se estende ao quarto inteiro: depois da mesa, \u00e9 o pr\u00f3prio c\u00f4modo que se transforma sem que ningu\u00e9m precise pedir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The futon laid out on the tatami of the bedroom after dinner, in one of Asaba’s traditional rooms. Courtesy of Asaba.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

O Asaba se adaptou ao viajante de hoje. Seis de suas acomoda\u00e7\u00f5es t\u00eam camas queen feitas sob medida, e o futon entra em cena quando o quarto recebe mais de duas pessoas. Nas outras, como o Matsukaze, a cama continua sendo um futon feito sob medida, estendido depois do jantar, de frente para o palco de n\u00f4 que a fam\u00edlia trouxe de T\u00f3quio no fim da era Meiji.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mais de cinco s\u00e9culos depois de Yakuro Asaba abrir as portas aos monges de Shuzenji, a cena continua igual. Voc\u00ea volta do banho, a lou\u00e7a j\u00e1 foi retirada, e o futon espera estendido sobre o tatame, arrumado por algu\u00e9m que voc\u00ea n\u00e3o viu entrar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The Gekkeiden, Asaba’s Noh stage, brought from Tokyo in the late Meiji period and set across the pond from the guest rooms. Courtesy of Asaba.<\/em><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

By Catherine Jacobi At Asaba, in Izu, dinner is cleared, and the bed appears while you’re in the bath. That quiet changeover says a great deal about the Japanese way of receiving guests. The Japanese style sitting room in Matsukaze, at Asaba, as it looks by day: tatami, a low table and cushions, facing the […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":54922,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"tpgb_global_settings":"","_lifestyle_hero":false,"_lifestyle_hide_title":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[2,4,5],"tags":[115,269,475,476,477,478],"edicao":[],"class_list":["post-54917","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-travel","category-style-design","category-arts-culture","tag-travel-2","tag-hospitality","tag-ryokan","tag-asaba","tag-izu","tag-japan"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nThe Room That Changes After Dinner: Inside the Ryokan | Lifestyle Mag<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"At Asaba, in the Izu Peninsula, discover the Ryokan and how it says a great deal about the Japanese way of receiving guests.\" 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