{"id":54581,"date":"2025-09-24T21:05:00","date_gmt":"2025-09-24T21:05:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/lifestylemag.com\/?p=54581"},"modified":"2026-10-01T17:10:03","modified_gmt":"2026-10-01T17:10:03","slug":"the-art-of-memory-strategy-and-scent","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/lifestylemag.com\/pt-br\/the-art-of-memory-strategy-and-scent\/","title":{"rendered":"A arte da Mem\u00f3ria, da Estrat\u00e9gia e do Perfume"},"content":{"rendered":"

Nascida em um est\u00fadio de pintura em Estocolmo, a Byredo se tornou um dos nomes mais fascinantes do luxo contempor\u00e2neo. Ben Gorham transformou lembran\u00e7as pessoais em fragr\u00e2ncias globais, criando uma marca que fala tanto de cultura e design quanto de perfume.<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Quando Ben Gorham decidiu criar uma casa de fragr\u00e2ncias, n\u00e3o era perfumista e tampouco vinha da tradi\u00e7\u00e3o francesa do setor. Era jogador de basquete, formado em artes visuais, que por acaso conheceu um mestre perfumista e descobriu que mem\u00f3rias podiam ser transformadas em cheiro. Esse encontro, aparentemente fortuito, marcou o in\u00edcio da Byredo<\/a> em 2006. Desde ent\u00e3o, a marca n\u00e3o nasceu de tend\u00eancias de mercado, mas da percep\u00e7\u00e3o de que recorda\u00e7\u00f5es pessoais poderiam se tornar universais. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Byredo vem da express\u00e3o arcaica em ingl\u00eas \u201cby redolence\u201d, que significa \u201cbom perfume\u201d. \u00c9 uma palavra quase esquecida, mas escolhida justamente por transmitir a ideia de preservar o ef\u00eamero<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

O pr\u00f3prio nome da marca j\u00e1 carrega uma camada de hist\u00f3ria. Byredo vem da express\u00e3o arcaica em ingl\u00eas \u201cby redolence\u201d, que significa \u201cbom perfume\u201d. \u00c9 uma palavra quase esquecida, mas escolhida justamente por transmitir a ideia de preservar o ef\u00eamero.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"Alto
Photos: Courtesy of Byredo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Alto
Photos: Courtesy of Byredo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Desde o in\u00edcio, a proposta foi criar perfumes que n\u00e3o inventassem fantasias, mas que trouxessem \u00e0 tona mem\u00f3rias vividas. A primeira fragr\u00e2ncia, Green, misturava s\u00e1lvia, laranja e alm\u00edscar, remetendo ao perfume do pai de Gorham e a lembran\u00e7as da inf\u00e2ncia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Se o conte\u00fado dos frascos era \u00edntimo, a forma era radicalmente contida. O frasco da Byredo, em vidro transparente e pesado, com tampa magn\u00e9tica arredondada em preto e r\u00f3tulo branco minimalista, parecia quase an\u00f4nimo. Ao contr\u00e1rio da ostenta\u00e7\u00e3o de tantas casas de perfume, Gorham preferiu o sil\u00eancio visual. Esse sil\u00eancio acabou virando assinatura: um objeto discreto que se tornou s\u00edmbolo de reconhecimento imediato em qualquer lugar do mundo. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

O mesmo rigor se aplica ao processo criativo. Cada fragr\u00e2ncia pode passar por mais de cento e cinquenta vers\u00f5es at\u00e9 alcan\u00e7ar o equil\u00edbrio ideal. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Essa paci\u00eancia contrasta com a pressa da ind\u00fastria, acostumada a lan\u00e7ar novidades no ritmo da moda. Em vez de se guiar pelo calend\u00e1rio, a Byredo deixa que cada cria\u00e7\u00e3o amadure\u00e7a no tempo necess\u00e1rio, o que faz cada lan\u00e7amento soar como cap\u00edtulo de um livro, e n\u00e3o como um produto de esta\u00e7\u00e3o. A estrat\u00e9gia de expans\u00e3o seguiu a mesma l\u00f3gica. A loja de SoHo, em Nova York, foi concebida como extens\u00e3o arquitet\u00f4nica dos frascos: piso em terrazzo italiano, madeira de abeto de Douglas no teto e blocos de vidro que filtram a luz em uma atmosfera et\u00e9rea.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Em Londres, a abertura levou anos at\u00e9 encontrar o espa\u00e7o certo. A sensa\u00e7\u00e3o ao entrar em uma boutique da Byredo \u00e9 menos de estar em uma loja e mais de atravessar uma narrativa sensorial, onde o ambiente ecoa a clareza dos perfumes. Com o tempo, a marca ampliou o portf\u00f3lio. Vieram velas, artigos de couro, maquiagem e at\u00e9 joias, lan\u00e7adas em 2024. Cada novo objeto foi introduzido apenas quando fazia sentido dentro da gram\u00e1tica visual e conceitual da marca. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Uma bolsa ou uma sombra n\u00e3o eram adere\u00e7os, mas continua\u00e7\u00e3o de um mesmo idioma est\u00e9tico. Esse cuidado explica por que a Byredo conseguiu se expandir sem se fragmentar, mantendo a mesma coer\u00eancia entre frasco, loja e experi\u00eancia. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Grande parte dessa for\u00e7a vem do pr\u00f3prio Gorham. Ele raramente usa perfume, o que pode soar estranho, mas reflete sua posi\u00e7\u00e3o: n\u00e3o cria para si, mas para o outro. Bal d\u2019Afrique nasceu dos di\u00e1rios de seu pai e da rela\u00e7\u00e3o entre Paris e a cultura africana. Mumbai Noise traduziu a densidade de ruas indianas, com caf\u00e9, fuma\u00e7a e som. S\u00e3o mem\u00f3rias pessoais convertidas em atmosferas abertas, que convidam qualquer pessoa a habitar aquelas lembran\u00e7as. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

As colabora\u00e7\u00f5es tamb\u00e9m foram usadas como extens\u00e3o desse pensamento. Em parceria com Virgil Abloh, a Byredo lan\u00e7ou Elevator Music, um perfume que se comporta como m\u00fasica ambiente, questionando a ideia de que luxo precisa ser alto e evidente. Em outro momento, m\u00f3veis e objetos de design foram incorporados ao universo da marca, transformando a casa em cen\u00e1rio de mem\u00f3ria. Em vez de a\u00e7\u00f5es promocionais, essas colabora\u00e7\u00f5es funcionaram como ensaios conceituais, expandindo o campo de atua\u00e7\u00e3o da marca. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"Alto
Photos: Courtesy of Byredo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Alto
Photos: Courtesy of Byredo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

As mudan\u00e7as de propriedade foram conduzidas com o mesmo cuidado. Em 2013, a Manzanita Capital adquiriu participa\u00e7\u00e3o majorit\u00e1ria, e em 2022 foi a vez do grupo espanhol Puig assumir o controle. Em ambos os casos, Gorham permaneceu como diretor criativo e acionista. O fato de investidores preservarem sua voz \u00e9 revelador: o maior patrim\u00f4nio da Byredo n\u00e3o \u00e9 o faturamento, mas a integridade criativa <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nesse cen\u00e1rio surge Alto Astral, um perfume que traduz otimismo como identidade cultural. A fragr\u00e2ncia abre com alde\u00eddos e coco, desdobra-se em jasmim, incenso e musk e repousa sobre s\u00e2ndalo, cashmere wood e \u00e2mbar salgado. Inspirado pelo Brasil, mostra cenas de samba ao entardecer, motos que cortam as ruas do Rio e o vento da praia que anuncia liberdade. Tudo registrado por artistas locais, em uma narrativa que privilegia autenticidade em vez de estere\u00f3tipos. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

A trajet\u00f3ria da Byredo pode ser lida em detalhes que parecem pequenos, mas juntos formam a arquitetura de uma marca. O nome retirado de uma palavra quase esquecida.\nO primeiro perfume ligado a lembran\u00e7as de inf\u00e2ncia. O frasco silencioso que virou \u00edcone. O processo criativo que exige mais de uma centena de tentativas. As lojas abertas apenas quando o espa\u00e7o certo aparece. O fundador que cria, mas raramente usa perfume. O lan\u00e7amento que mostrou que luxo pode ser discreto. As aquisi\u00e7\u00f5es que refor\u00e7aram, e n\u00e3o dilu\u00edram, a identidade criativa. A linha de joias que confirmou a for\u00e7a de sua gram\u00e1tica visual. E, agora, uma fragr\u00e2ncia que traduz a alegria brasileira como estado de esp\u00edrito. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Desde o in\u00edcio, a Byredo mostrou que luxo n\u00e3o \u00e9 exagero, mas clareza. Sua for\u00e7a est\u00e1 na coer\u00eancia: manter c\u00f3digos visuais, crescer com paci\u00eancia, escolher colabora\u00e7\u00f5es que ampliam a narrativa e respeitar a biografia como guia. Encontrar a Byredo \u00e9 encontrar a prova de que mem\u00f3ria pode ser desenhada. E que, dentro do sil\u00eancio de um frasco, cabem mundos inteiros.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Alto
Photos by Alto Astral \u00a9 Courtesy of Byredo<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

When Ben Gorham decided to create a fragrance house, he was not a perfumer, nor did he come from the traditional lineage of the French industry. He was a basketball player who had studied fine arts and who, by chance, met a master perfumer who showed him how memory could be captured in scent. That […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":54589,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"tpgb_global_settings":"","_lifestyle_hero":false,"_lifestyle_hide_title":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[41],"tags":[280,349,429,430],"edicao":[19],"class_list":["post-54581","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-mix","tag-lifestyle-mag","tag-spotlight","tag-byredo","tag-alto-astral","edicao-gilles-boisser"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nThe art of Memory, Strategy and Scent | Lifestyle Mag<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/lifestylemag.com\/pt-br\/the-art-of-memory-strategy-and-scent\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"pt_BR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"The art of Memory, Strategy and Scent\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"When Ben Gorham decided to create a fragrance house, he was not a perfumer, nor did he come from the traditional lineage of the French industry. 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