{"id":54408,"date":"2022-11-16T09:30:22","date_gmt":"2022-11-16T09:30:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/lifestylemag.com\/?p=54408"},"modified":"2026-09-24T20:52:11","modified_gmt":"2026-09-24T20:52:11","slug":"de-paris-a-sevilha-um-dialogo-fascinante","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/lifestylemag.com\/en\/de-paris-a-sevilha-um-dialogo-fascinante\/","title":{"rendered":"De Paris a Sevilha: um di\u00e1logo fascinante"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

A cole\u00e7\u00e3o Dior Cruise 2023 combina descoberta, imagina\u00e7\u00e3o e reflex\u00e3o, heran\u00e7a e criatividade. Apresentada em Sevilha, no cora\u00e7\u00e3o da majestosa Plaza de Espa\u00f1a, o espet\u00e1culo homenageia as f\u00e9rias espanholas, da arte da dan\u00e7a \u00e0 tradi\u00e7\u00e3o equestre.<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
\"Dior<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

A inspira\u00e7\u00e3o primordial \u00e9 La Capitana, nome dado a Carmen Amaya, que representa a ess\u00eancia do flamenco, com sua liberdade de dan\u00e7ar e reescrever suas regras. Espelhados nessa mulher \u00edmpar, os looks de Dior Cruise 2023<\/a> evocam tamb\u00e9m, por exemplo, a Duquesa de Alba, personagem emblem\u00e1tica andando a cavalo com Jackie Kennedy. Assim como o xale de Manila, que conta hist\u00f3rias e viagens das comunidades que o criaram e usaram; as m\u00faltiplas vozes de objetos n\u00f4mades trazem mensagens ancestrais por meio de suas silhuetas. Na converg\u00eancia desses encontros, exaltando o savoir-faire <\/em>inigual\u00e1vel, as cria\u00e7\u00f5es celebram vis\u00f5es plurais da feminilidade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

UM CAMINHO DE DESCOBERTAS E REFLEX\u00d5ES<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Os lugares escolhidos comp\u00f5em um cen\u00e1rio espetacular para o desfile ao mesmo tempo em que ecoam a hist\u00f3ria da Maison e seu desejo de buscar novas colabora\u00e7\u00f5es, inspiradas pelos seus territ\u00f3rios de origem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

La Capitana \u00e9 uma artista de gestos extraordin\u00e1rios e revolucion\u00e1rios, a primeira bailarina flamenca a se vestir de homem, combinando poder e fragilidade. Capaz de expressar a alma da Espanha, encarna uma feminilidade consciente e plural. Do vestido de alta costura Bal \u00e0 S\u00e9ville (primavera-ver\u00e3o 1956), desenhado por Christian Dior, \u00e0 Place d\u2019Espagne (constru\u00eddo para a Exposi\u00e7\u00e3o Ibero-Americana de 1929) que abra\u00e7a a riqueza das culturas que moldaram e representam a Espanha, lugares reais e metaf\u00f3ricos abolem fronteiras ao repensar os c\u00f3digos de vestimenta que inspiram a moda.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nesta atmosfera intensa, esbo\u00e7ada no claro-escuro de certas pinturas de Goya e por meio das palavras de Federico Garc\u00eda Lorca, nasce um processo de cria\u00e7\u00e3o mesclando fasc\u00ednio, homenagem e interpreta\u00e7\u00e3o.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\"Dior<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Dior<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Dior<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Dior<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Dior<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

OBJETOS N\u00d4MADES<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

O leque, um item integrante do imagin\u00e1rio coletivo espanhol \u00e9 ao mesmo tempo funcional, decorativo e performativo. Foi trazido para a Espanha pelos primeiros marinheiros e aventureiros vindos da China, enraizando-se nos gestos e atitudes das mulheres sevilhanas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Para a cole\u00e7\u00e3o Cruise 2023, Dior criou leques em renda, um material intimamente ligado ao savoir-faire<\/em> ib\u00e9rico, unindo Europa a Veneza, num jogo de refer\u00eancias cruzadas, junto com o atelier Abanicos Carbonell, que produz pe\u00e7as excepcionais em Val\u00eancia h\u00e1 mais de 200 anos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tamb\u00e9m para esta cole\u00e7\u00e3o, Maria Grazia Chiuri escolheu colaborar com a Orfebrer\u00eda Ramos, que utiliza t\u00e9cnicas de metalurgia para confeccionar e decorar objetos cerimoniais religiosos, para criar uma linha completa de joias sobre o tema da rosa de Granville, em homenagem a Monsieur Dior. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

A estilista italiana no comando criativo da Dior decidiu reinterpretar duas formas cl\u00e1ssicas de chap\u00e9u \u2013 emblem\u00e1ticas do guarda-roupa de equita\u00e7\u00e3o \u2013 produzidas pelo atelier Fern\u00e1ndez y Roche. Um \u00e9 feito de feltro e o outro de palha, ambos decorados com detalhes ic\u00f4nicos da maison. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

E para reinterpretar a tradi\u00e7\u00e3o do couro de C\u00f3rdoba, que combina t\u00e9cnicas de escultura e pintura, Maria Grazia chamou o artista Pietro Ruffo e o artes\u00e3o Daniel L\u00f3pez-Obrero Carmona (que traduziu as obras feitas pelo designer romano para o desfile em v\u00e1rios pain\u00e9is de couro cobrindo um ba\u00fa projetado para abrigar selas andaluzas e equipamentos de equita\u00e7\u00e3o), al\u00e9m de ter trabalhos usados para decorar uma s\u00e9rie de bolsas da cole\u00e7\u00e3o. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Em Sevilha, o artesanato em couro tem uma forte liga\u00e7\u00e3o com o mundo equestre, cada elemento da disciplina influenciando as t\u00e9cnicas e detalhes. Para a cole\u00e7\u00e3o Cruise 2023, Maria Grazia colaborou com Javier Menacho Guisado para reinventar a bolsa Dior Saddle com couro especial e m\u00e9todos de bordado.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Dior<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

XALES QUE FALAM<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Finalmente, os m\u00edticos xales de Manila, pe\u00e7a que resume o esp\u00edrito da cole\u00e7\u00e3o, com sua hist\u00f3ria de viagens e desenraizamento. Tr\u00eas gera\u00e7\u00f5es de mulheres trabalham na produ\u00e7\u00e3o deles no atelier Mar\u00eda Jos\u00e9 Espinar. De fato, a t\u00e9cnica de bordado veio da China, com os xales importados para Sevilha no s\u00e9culo XVII atrav\u00e9s das Filipinas (que tem como capital, Manila). Eles se tornaram um dos mais emblem\u00e1ticos acess\u00f3rios espanh\u00f3is, notadamente usados pelas mulheres pintadas por Goya e Vel\u00e1zquez.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

De Sevilha, espalharam-se para a Am\u00e9rica Latina, demonstrando como o artesanato \u00e9 uma linguagem global com o poder de conectar culturas e lugares. E desta vez, ganharam bordados tradicionais de Dior \u2013 o bordado desempenha um papel fundamental em todas as cole\u00e7\u00f5es desenhadas por Maria Grazia, fascinada por uma variedade de t\u00e9cnicas que \u2013 da It\u00e1lia \u00e0 \u00cdndia, de Paris a Sevilha \u2013 comp\u00f5em essa linguagem global.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

O atelier Jes\u00fas Rosado s\u00f3 trabalha com fios de ouro e prata para bordar os tecidos usados para vestir Madonas em prociss\u00f5es religiosas ou em ritos lit\u00fargicos. Durante uma visita, a diretora criativa de Dior ficou impressionada com a configura\u00e7\u00e3o do atelier, semelhante a uma oficina de alta-costura, reinterpretando, para a cole\u00e7\u00e3o Cruise
2023, uma vers\u00e3o da jaqueta Bar e Lady Dior com bordados tridimensionais. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

E assim, Maria Grazia Chiuri transforma este Cruise Dior, em um encontro de emo\u00e7\u00f5es e inten\u00e7\u00f5es, transmitindo uma ideia de moda que \u00e9 ao mesmo tempo cotidiana e fora do comum, na qual as cria\u00e7\u00f5es celebram a multiplicidade de vis\u00f5es de feminilidade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"Dior<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Dior<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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\"Dior<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Dior<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

A inspira\u00e7\u00e3o primordial \u00e9 La Capitana, nome dado a Carmen Amaya, que representa a ess\u00eancia do flamenco, com sua liberdade de dan\u00e7ar e reescrever suas regras. Espelhados nessa mulher \u00edmpar, os looks de Dior Cruise 2023 evocam tamb\u00e9m, por exemplo, a Duquesa de Alba, personagem emblem\u00e1tica andando a cavalo com Jackie Kennedy. Assim como o […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":54420,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"tpgb_global_settings":"","_lifestyle_hero":false,"_lifestyle_hide_title":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[31,90,381,382,383,384],"edicao":[192],"class_list":["post-54408","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-style-design","tag-lifestyle-lovers","tag-lifestyle","tag-fashion-story","tag-fashion-show","tag-dior-cruise-2023","tag-dior","edicao-silvia-bussade-braz"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nDe Paris a Sevilha: um di\u00e1logo fascinante | Lifestyle Mag<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/lifestylemag.com\/en\/de-paris-a-sevilha-um-dialogo-fascinante\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"De Paris a Sevilha: um di\u00e1logo fascinante\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"A inspira\u00e7\u00e3o primordial \u00e9 La Capitana, nome dado a Carmen Amaya, que representa a ess\u00eancia do flamenco, com sua liberdade de dan\u00e7ar e reescrever suas regras. Espelhados nessa mulher \u00edmpar, os looks de Dior Cruise 2023 evocam tamb\u00e9m, por exemplo, a Duquesa de Alba, personagem emblem\u00e1tica andando a cavalo com Jackie Kennedy. 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